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APPROVED METHODS 
for HOME LAUNDERING 

B s MARY BEALS VAIL 



Of two countries f with an equal amount of population , we 
may declare with positive certainty that the wealthiest and 
most highly civilized is that which consumes the greatest 
weight of soat. — Liebig. 



PUBLISHED BY 
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE CO. 

CINCINNATI, O 



fUBRARYofCONQRESS 
I 1 wo Copies Received 
J FEb 1! 190r 

8USS A XXC.,N«, 
COPY B, 




r- 



COPYRIGHT 1906 

THE PROCTER & GAMBLE CO., 
Cincinnati, Ohio. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



INTRODrCTORV 
Vai^ue; of Laundry Work, 7 

PURIFIKRS 

Sun, ------- 7 

Air, ------------ 8 

Water, ------- 8 

Chemical, - - . - 9 

Mechanicai., . - - - 9 

STAINS 
Instructions for TAK I nCx OUT, 11-15 

FABRICS 

Cotton, - -. J 6 

Linen, ----------- 16 

Wooiy, ------ -^7 

S11.K, ------------ 17 

SOArS 

Ivory, - ^9 

Lenox, ------------ 19 

P. & G. Naphtha, --------- 19 

Soap Soi^ution, - -------- 20 

LAUNDRY AIDS 

Starch, ----------- 21 

B1.UING, ------ 23 

Wax, ------- 25 

Reagents, ----- ------ 25 

EQUIPMENT FOR HOME LAUNDRY 

List of Articles Needed, with Prices, - . - - 26-37 

PRACTICAL LAUNDRY WORK 

Plan of Week's Work, 3^-39 

Order of Day's Work, - - 39-4o 

White Clothes, --------- 41-56 

Thick Starching, - - - - - - - - 57-6i 

Clear Starching, - - - - 61 



Colored Clothes, 



62 



Hosiery, ----------- 63 

Wool, ------ 63-66 

Silk, - - - - - - - - - - - ' . ^^ 

Laces and Curtains, - 67-68 



PUBLISHER'S PREFACE 

THIS booklet is published by The Procter & Gamble 
Co., of Cincinnati, Ohio. 

It is believed to be the most complete as well as 
the most reliable publication ever issued dealing with the 
problems of home laundering. 

The information it contains is of value to experienced as 
well as inexperienced housewives. 

The firm of Procter & Gamble was established in 1837. 
The Procter & Gamble Co. was incorporated in 1890. Its 
Ivorydale, Ohio, plant is the largest soap factory in the 
United States. Branch factories are located at Kansas City, 
Kan., and at Arlington, Staten Island, N. Y. 

Of the many brands of soap made by The Procter & 
Gamble Co. , at least three are known from one end of the 
country to the other — "Ivory," "Lenox" and "Procter & 
Gamble (P. & G.) Naphtha Soap." 

Each of these soaps has a field of its own. 

Ivory is used for the bath and toilet as well as for such other 
purposes as require a mild, neutral and absolutely pure soap 
— a soap which, because it contains no "free" (uncom- 
bined) alkali, can be used without hesitation for cleansing 
articles for which ordinary laundry soaps are unsafe and 
unsatisfactory. 

Lenox is one of the best and, at the same time, one of the 
cheapest of laundry soaps. It can be used for every pur- 
pose for which a high grade, well made, laundry soap should 

(5) 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 



be used. There are cheaper laundry soaps than Lenox. But 
it does not pay to use them. Many of them are badly made. 
Some of them are positively harmful. None of them is as 
good as Lenox. For every day use around the house, it is 
without an equal. 

P. & G. Naphtha Soap simplifies the work of laundering 
to an extent that is almost beyond belief. Use it and you 
will have no more " ^lue Mondays," no more hot kitchens, 
no more backaches from bending over tubs of steaming 
water, no more hard rubbing of clothes up and down the 
washboard. Time, labor, fuel and money saved — and 
cleaner clothes than you have ever had before. 



THE VALUE OF LAUNDRY WORK 
-PURIFIERS 

THE one great privilege of rich and poor alike is the 
possession of clean clothes. Water is free, soap is 
cheap, and sunshine and fresh air are everywhere. 
For centuries we have been training ourselves to like the 
"feel" of clean, smooth garments, the odor of freshly laun- 
dered linen, and the appearance of clothes clean and uni- 
form in color, free from wrinkles, and straight as to threads 
of material. We may not have known that this very clean- 
liness is the strongest supporter of good health, but it is. 
The skin is made more active by the fresh clothing, which , 
in turn, absorbs the impurities thrown off by the skin. 
Moreover, clean, boiled clothes never carry disease germs. 

In discussing any subject, we must first learn of the ma- 
terials to be handled. With the knowledge of these, intel- 
ligent work and satisfactory results are sure to follow. In 
our special subject, Home Laundering, the information side 
will be discussed under the several heads : Purifiers, Soil, 
Fabrics, and Laundry Aids. 

Sun, air, and water — Nature's purifiers — stand first and 
are indispensable. The sun's rays have wonderful proper- 
ties, direct and indirect, in the form of heat. Nothing can 
compare with them. Many forms of minute plant life, 
moulds, and certain bacteria, will not grow in the sunshine; 
and sun and air, together with moisture, break up harmful 

(7) 



Apprdbed Methods for Home Laundering 



compounds, rendering them harmless. Moist heat at boil- 
ing temperature or higher kills all life if kept at that tem- 
perature long enough. The lower the form of life, the 
longer will it withstand heat. So, in order that clothes may 
be sterile, that is, free from life, they must be boiled at 
least ten minutes, and preferabl}^ twenty. Dry heat kept at 
a higher temperature f©r a longer time acts in the same way, 
but if not controlled, it may injure the fabric. Ironing 
applies heat for so short a time that it cannot be depended 
on to purify clothes. 

Air, being one-fifth oxj-gen, aids in the breaking up of 
harmful compounds and, when in motion, scatters dirt. 

Water is our chief dirt carrier. When in motion, water 
holds in suspension particles of dirt, which float away. 
Much of the soil of clothes may be dissolved in water, or, 
by the aid of soap, an emulsion is formed and the dirt is 
carried off. 

Primitive methods of washing depended almost entirely 
upon flowing w^ater to cleanse clothes, and w^ashing in 
streams is still the method of cleansing used among people 
of simple habits to-day, a flat stone, upon which to rub or 
pound the clothes, being the only aid, unless soap is used. 

More depends upon the kind of water we have for laun- 
dry work than upon anything else. Soft water is best, but 
it may absorb many things in its journey from the clouds. 
After air and roofs are washed, rain water may be stored 
for use, but if we get water from a stream or lake, it may 
bring with it particles of plants or soil. These may be 
strained out, or the water may be allowed to settle, the 
clear w^ater being then carefully poured off. Water which 
has soaked into the ground and appeared again in stream. 



Approved Methods for Home La.undermg 



lake, spring, or well, may have absorbed some mineral 
matter that may make it undesirable for laundry purposes. 

The most common mineral found in water is lime, which 
makes water hard. Temporary hardness of water is most 
common. It is due to a soluble lime compound which will 
combine with soap to form a greasy scum. To overcome 
this difficulty water should be boiled. In case the hardness 
is not removable by boiling it is called permanently hard 
water. To overcome this add lime water or w^eak carbonat- 
ed alkali before boiling. In softening water with an alkali, 
only as much as is necessary to do the work is desirable. 
More acts upon clothing and hands, weakening fabric and 
skin. The larger the amount and the greater the strength 
of the alkali, the worse the effect. 

The alkalies commonly known and used in the household 
are: 

Ammonia, a gas dissolved in water, and mild in its action if diluted; 
it readily evaporates if heated. It is comparatively expensive. 

Borax, a powder, mild and expensive. 

SAiy Soda, or Carbonated Ai,kai,i, a crystal or powder, stronger 
and cheaper than borax. 

Potash, or Lye, a liquid or solid, strong but little used in modern 
times. It is derived from wood ashes by a process of leeching; is used 
in making "soft soap." 

Caustic Potash and Caustic Soda are very strong and not 
expensive, but are rarely known in the household. One or the other 
is almost invariably used in the manufacture of laundry soaps. 

Soap, a very essential purifier, is discussed in a separate chapter. 

Rubbing, Pounding and Rinsing are valuable mechanical aids 
in purifying clothes. 



SOIL 

THE soil in clothing may be of two kinds. If it is the 
product of life — organic — it may be perspiration, oily 
secretions or dead skin, food material or stains, and 
usually bacteria of son»e kind. The disease bacteria are few 
in number; the harmless, helpful kinds are many. When 
organic material of any kind begins to give off an odor, we 
know that bacteria are at work. This is especially true of 
clothes that have been next to the body. All bacteria can 
be killed by boiling. 

Of inorganic soil we have dust, ground up rock, which is 
usually mixed with organic material, and stains. 

Stains must have special consideration. They will often 
come out with cold \vater alone, and this should first 
be tried. Stains must be removed before the garment is 
washed. They come out most easily w^hen fresh and moist. 
Stains will usually be set, that is, partake of the nature of 
dyes, when acted upon by soap and heat. To remove stains 
after they have been washed, w^ithout doing serious injury 
to the fabric, is almost impossible. 

We discussed alkalies in their relation to hard water. 

Now w^e want to consider acids — known to us ordinarily as 

sour-tasting materials, for example, vinegar and lemon juice. 

In removing stains they are often used. Acids and alkalies 

act quite differently — they neutralize each other, that is, one 

destroys the characteristic properties of the other when they 

are brought together in the right proportions. Acids are of 

many kinds and varying strengths, and should be carefully 

used. 

(lo) 



Stains. 

WE will consider stains individually, but first let us 
take up the methods of removing them, whether 
we use boiling water, an acid, an alkali, a bleach- 
ing agent, or a volatile liquid. 

If boiling zvater is to be used, stretch the stained part 
over a large bowl or saucepan, have a teakettle full of 
absolutely boiling water and pour water through the stain 
until it disappears. Hold the kettle high so that the water 
may fall with force upon the stain. 

If an add is necessary, stretch the stained part over a 
bowl of boiling water and with a medicine dropper or an 
old tooth-brush apply very dilute muriatic acid (i%) to the 
wet stain; occasionally dip the stain into the water and use 
acid again. When the stain disappears, rinse well in clear 
water and then in tepid or cold water in which a little 
ammonia has been poured — just enough to give a slight 
odor. Ammonia will overcome any bad effect the acid might 
have upon the cloth and will itself evaporate. Oxalic acid 
may be used in the same way if the stain will not yield 
readily. Oxalic acid comes in crystals and muriatic acid in 
liquid form. Both can be purchased at the drug store and 
are violent poisons, but in the i % strength mentioned muri- 
atic acid is harmless. Strong muriatic acid should be kept 
in a glass-stoppered bottle. 

If an alkali is required, dilute ammonia is to be preferred, 
the method of procedure being the same as in the case of an 

acid. 

(II) 



12 Approved Methods for Home Laundering 

If a bleach is desired, one of several methods may be used. 

The sun bleaches by oxidation in presence of moisture; 
the efficiency is increased by green vegetable coloring matter. 
All colors are affected. Wet cloth or stain and lay it upon 
the grass in strong sunshine. Keep it moist. The process is 
a slow one but it does not injure the fabric. 

Sulphur fumes bleaoh b}^ deoxidation and are applicable to 
few kinds of stains, but most fruit stains will yield to them. 
Results are not permanent. Place a lump of sulphur on an 
old dish, have a funnel ready to confine the fumes; put a 
live coal or a match on the sulphur, invert the funnel over 
it, and hold the moist stain in the fumes. Sometimes a sul- 
phur match will furnish gas enough. Do not get the burn- 
ing sulphur on the skin nor breathe the fumes. The pres- 
ence of moisture is absolutely necessary. 

Peroxide of hydrogen and dilute ammonia will bleach by 
oxidation. The results are permanent, and particularly ap- 
plicable to woolen fabrics. The ammonia must be diluted 
in the proportions of one teaspoonful of household ammonia 
to one pint of water. Use equal parts of fresh peroxide of 
hydrogen and dilute ammonia. Moisten the stain in this 
liquid until it disappears. 

Chloride of lime bleaches by oxidation; the results are 
permanent, but unless the bleach is thoroughly washed out 
the fabric will be injured. A more desirable form of this 
bleach is as follows : 

Javelle Water. 

1 lb. sal soda, or preferably pearl ash, 
Xlb. chloride of lime, 

2 qts, cold water. 



Apprcyved Methods for Home Laundering 13 

Mix thoroughly, let it stand several hours. Pour off 
clear liquid and bottle for use. Keep in a dark, cool place. 

To use Javelle water, stretch the stained article and rub 
the liquid into it, rinse quickly in clear water, and brush 
again if necessary. Always rinse in ammonia w^ter at last. 

Ether, gasoline, benzine, alcohol, and chloroform, or in 
fact any liquid material that vaporizes easily, must always 
be used in daylight, and preferably in the open air. If in 
the house, no lamp or fire of any kind can be in the room, 
and the windows or doors must be open to carry off the 
vapors. Never put one of these materials on a wet cloth. 
The fumes are very inflammable, and serious damages would 
be done were these precautions not borne in mind. 

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAKING 
OUT STAINS 

BLOOD — If fresh or recently dried, soak in cold or tepid water, rub 
out; when stain is brown and nearly gone, use soap and warm 
water. If very dry, soak and wash out; use Javelle water or 
peroxide of hydrogen. 

BRASS — Rub with rancid lard or butter before washing. Warm white 
wine vinegar is a solvent for brass or copper, but must not be 
used on colored goods. 

COCOA — Wash in cold water first, then rinse and pour boiling water 
through it. If resistant, try a bleaching agent. 

COFFEE— Pour boiling water through it from a height. If resist- 
ant, try a bleaching agent. 

FRUIT —Alcohol softens and dissolves many fruit stains. If the alco- 
hol is warmed over hot water it will be more efiBcient ; later, use 
boiling water poured from a height. If resistant, try sulphur 
fumes, dilute muriatic acid, or a bleaching agent. 



f4 Approved Methods for Home La.undering 

GRASS— Alcohol will dissolve the green coloring matter of plants and 
is recommended when the material cannot be washed. 

GREASE or OIL — Wash with cold water and soap first, and use solvents 
after drying, if necessary. Axle grease, rub with lard and let it 
stand to soften, then wash out. For fabrics that cannot be 
washed, the material may be treated with gasoline. Rub always 
toward the centre of the stain, and have several folds of clean 
cloth under the spote Use always by daylight and in a draft. 
Ether is better than gasoline and is used in the same way. 
Powdered chalk or blotting paper may be used to absorb the oil. 
Kerosene will evaporate. Vaseline stains should be soaked in 
kerosene before washing. Chloroform, or preferably carbona, 
is a better solvent than gasoline, and with either there is no 
danger of flame or explosion. 

INK— Place stained portion in sweet or sour milk and allow ittost-ind 
several days. Change milk, wash out in clear water, and try 
again, if necessary. Unless you know the character of the ink, 
it is hard to know what to recommend. Try peroxide of hydro- 
gen and dilute ammonia if the stain is fresh, lemon and salt, 
acid oxalate of potash, known as salts of lemon, or oxalic acid, 
and lastly Javelle water. 

Red Ink — Wash with cold water or water and ammonia. If it 
does not come out, use Javelle water. 

IRON RUST — Lemon juice, salt, and hot sunshine may dissolve the 
stain, but more often muriatic acid is necessary. Oxalic acid 
may be tried, acid oxalate of potash, known as salts of lemon, 
or oxalic acid and dilute muriatic acid. If available, ox-gall 
will remove iron stain. 

MEDICINE — Alcohol usually dissolves medicines. For iodine, use 
hyposulphite of soda or chloroform. 

MILDEW — Is really a plant, a mould growing on the fibre. It shows 
itself in warm weather when clothes are kept damp for a day or 
two. If fresh it may be removed, but if old it will not come out. 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 15 

Wet in strong soap suds, cover with a paste of soap and 
powdered chalk, or chalk and salt, and put in the strong sun- 
light for hours. If it does not yield to these, Javelle water or 
bleaching agents may be used, but the fibre is liable to suffer. 

MILK OR CREAM— Wash out with cold water, and later use soap 
and cold water. 

MUCUS, as in handkerchiefs, should be washed in ammonia and 
water before using soap. In case of a heavy cold it is best to 
soak all handkerchiefs in a strong solution of boracic acid for 
several hours. 

PAINT OR TAR— If fresh and washable, use soap and water; if not 
washable, use gasoline. If dry and washable, soften with lard 
or oil and then use soap and water; if not washable, soften and 
wash in gasoline. If color is delicate, soften with oil and rub 
out with ether or chloroform. The most effectual remedy for 
dry paint or varnish is amyl acetate or resin spirits; soften stain 
with one of them and wash out with gasoline. 

PERSPIRATION — Use strong soap solution and let the garment lie 
in the sunshine. The perspiration under the arms is different 
from that of the rest of the body and requires an acid to neutral- 
ize it. Use dilute muriatic acid. 

SUGAR OR GUM — Dissolve with warm water if washable ; with 
dilute alcohol if not washable. 

TEA— Rub out in cold water first, then pour boiling water through it. 
Glycerine may be used to soak the stain. 

WAX— Cover the spot, both sides, with brown or blotting paper and 
apply a warm (not hot) iron. It may be dissolved by hot 
alcohol. 

WINE — If a red wine, cover with a layer of salt while fresh, then use 
boiling water. Moist salt and sunshine may be used if it does 
not come out easily. If a yellow wine, wash first with cold 
water, then with soap and water. 



Fabrics 

THE fabrics that we deal with ordinarily are of both 
vegetable and animal origin. 

The vegetable fibres, cotton and linen, are of a 
cellulose, woody nature, and do not readily combine with 
other materials. Their resistance makes them tough, strong, 
and not as easily dyed as animal fibres. 

Under the microscope the cotton fibre is ribbon-like, 
somewhat thickened at the edges, tapering toward the end, 
and slightly twisted. The fibres come from the fruit pod 
of the plant, are from one to two and a third inches long, 
and seem like a flattened tube, probably a plant cell. 

Linen comes from the stem of the flax plant. The fibres 
are from ten to twelve inches long and under the microscope 
are apparently straight, transparent tubes. 

Cold dilute acids, or alkalies, will gradually weaken both 
cotton and linen fibres. Concentrated acids and alkalies 
act upon both according to concentration and time allowed. 
Linen is more strongly affected by alkalies than cotton. 
With concentrated acids cotton is converted into parchment- 
like material first, • then gradually falls to pieces. With 
concentrated alkalies cotton becomes thicker, transparent, 
lustrous, is in fact mercerized, then decomposes. Sal soda 
(Sodium carbonate) acts but mildly on either cotton or linen. 
Moist chloride of lime and sunlight weaken both fibres, and 
if boiled with a weak solution of chloride of lime, the fibres 
grow weaker the longer the contact. This material is used 
in bleaching both fibres, and the fact that unbleached ma- 
terials are stronger than bleached is thus accounted for. 

The animal fibres ordinarily used are wool and silk. Both 
(i6) 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering J7 

are nitrogenous in character, one — wool — being hair-like, 
the other — silk — being gum-like. Both are more easily in- 
jured than vegetable fibres, silk being more delicate than wool. 

Wool is composed of numberless sections or sheaths, one 
growing out of the next, and each sheath with more or less 
jagged edges. They form a tube with from one thousand 
to three thousand sections to the inch. These ragged-edged 
sheaths explain what is known as shrinking. When we 
think how closely the fibres lie in cloth, we can under- 
stand how the jagged edges may interlock with rubbing 
or with the expansion and contraction of heat and cold in 
the water with which we wash flannels. The wool fibres 
are from one to eleven inches long. 

All alkalies act on wool. The effect depending upon the 
kind, concentration, temperature of solution, and duration 
of contact. Cold dilute caustic alkalies are destructive, 
but if hot they will dissolve the wool fibre. Sal soda makes 
the color yellow, the fibre harsh and less elastic. Ammonia 
has the least action. Dilute acids roughen the fibre but 
concentrated acids disintegrate it. Chloride of lime injures 
the fibre and, if hot, destroys it. 

Silk, the product of the silk-worm just as it enters the 
chrysalis state, is a lustrous, strong, elastic fibre. The fibre 
is double, coming from two glands in the head through one 
opening, and is from ii>^ to 41^ feet long. 

All alkalies act upon silk according to kind, concentra- 
tion, temperature of solution, and duration of contact. The 
lustre is first impaired and then the fibre is finally dissolved. 
Dilute acids roughen the fibre but concentrated acids dis- 
integrate it. Both silk and wool are readily affected by dry 
heat; silk first stiffens, then breaks. 



SOAP 

IN very early times soap was unknown. Clothes were 
rubbed and beaten in running water to loosen the dirt. 
The oily dirt m the clothes is insoluble, that is, it is 
not removable by water. As a consequence the labor of re- 
moving it is so great that the fabric is liable to be injured, 
lyater it was discovered that wood ashes would lighten the 
labor of washing, but if they were used too freely not only 
the dirt but the hands and the fabric itself were injured. 

Soap is a combination of a caustic alkali wdth a fat or, 
more properly speaking, with a fatty acid. The fat is 
broken up into two parts — fatty acid and glycerine — by 
means of alkali and heat. The fatty acid combines with 
alkali and the glycerine is left free; glycerine is a by-product 
of every soap factory. Potash, soda ash, and caustic soda 
are the alkalies most frequently used in soap making. Pot- 
ash produces a soft soap, while the soda, which is used ex- 
clusively in the soap factories in the United States, produces 
a good, hard soap. Among other materials used in soap are 
tallow, grease, cottonseed oil, cocoanut oil, cottonseed 
foots, corn oil, olive oil, olive oil foots, palm oil, castor oil, 
and resin. One or more of these products are used at will. 
A fixed amount of alkali is required to saponify a definite 
quantity of fat or oil; when the proper proportions are 
adhered to the result is a "neutral" soap. A neutral soap is 
one in which there is no "free" (uncombined) alkali or fat. 
Resin is used in yellow laundry soaps. A small percentage 
of high-grade resin does not injure the quality of the soap. 
(i8) 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 19 

In fact, it aids in forming suds, which carries off the dirt; but 
resin in excess or of a low grade makes undesirable soap. 

Soap owes its cleansing power to its solubility and its at- 
traction for "dirt." In hot water soap dissolves perfectly, 
but as the water cools it seems to separate, especially if 
there is much water present. Hot soap solution does the 
best work. The most plausible explanation of the detergent 
value of soap is that it is an excellent emulsifying agent: 
the dirt in clothes is largely of an oily nature, and oil is 
easily emulsified. 

In choosing soap, the use to which it is to be put must be 
considered. A white, neutral, floating soap, like Ivory, can 
be used for all toilet purposes, and is also the best soap for 
silks, woolens, laces, and fine muslins. It will affect the fa- 
bric less than any other kind and, being white, leaves no 
color to be rinsed out or removed later. The light brown 
soap, like Lenox, is the universal laundry soap. The small 
amount of resin in it gives the color (as well perhaps as the 
darker fats used). The resin helps to form the suds, which 
acts as a dirt carrier. 

As a rule, naphtha soaps are lighter in color than ordinary 
laundry soaps and contain no resin. Naphtha or a petroleum 
product akin to naphtha but less volatile is incorporated in 
the soap. The petroleum oil is a valuable solvent and adds to 
the effectiveness of the soap. The Procter & Gamble 
(P. & G.) Naphtha Soap is white; showing the high grade 
of materials that are used to form the neutral soap which is 
its foundation. A good naphtha soap lessens the work of 
rubbing and for that reason is popular with housewives who 
do their own washing. It also does away with boiling if 
plenty of water, sunshine and fresh air are used but an 



20 Approved Methods for Home La.under{ng 

occasional boiling is even then necessary to make clothes 
pure and sweet smelling. 

To use Naphtha soap, shave it into warm (not hot) water 
and soak the clothes in it for one hour, or better still, over 
night. Very dirty clothes should have soap rubbed into 
them before soaking. Rinse clothes out of water in which 
they have been soaked, look them over for soiled spots which 
may need rubbing, rinse, blue, and hang out. 

Soap powders are powdered soap, to which has been 
added more or less washing soda and, sometimes, a scourer. 

Home-made soap is unsatisfactor3\ Even with the great- 
est of care in making, soap made by what is known as the 
cold process is not perfectly combined, and it contains all 
the impurities in the original fat. It would be far better 
for housekeepers to sell the fats and get a good soap for use. 

Soap Solution. — For laundry purposes one bar of ordinary 
laundry soap may be cut up and dissolved in three or four 
quarts of hot water; this can be used at once while hot, or 
kept in a glass or china jar until needed. 

Ivory soap solution, if sufficiently concentrated, will form 
a jelly on cooling; it is valuable in cleaning material for 
which you would not use soap and water — gloves, leather, 
and things of a similar nature. The proportions are one 
small cake of Ivory soap to two quarts of water. Shave the 
soap into the water and cook about ten minutes, or until 
perfectly dissolved. Use hot for any purpose, but only 
when cold and with a dry cloth for cleaning gloves, etc. 
The best results are obtained if the glove is kept on the 
hand during the process of cleaning. 



1 



Laundry Aids 

MOST important of the little extras in a laundry is 
starch. It is of vegetable origin, and found in 
many parts of the plant, but principally in the seed, 
root, or tuber, where it is stored as food for the germ when 
it begins to sprout. The tiny starch granules, known to us 
as a tasteless, odorless, white powder, cannot be distinguished 
one from the other except by the microscope, when their shape, 
size, and markings are recognized. When subjected to heat 
and moisture these granules absorb moisture, burst their 
envelopes and combine with the water to form a gelatinous 
mass, more or less thick, according to the amount of water 
used. It is this peculiarity of starch which makes it valu- 
able in the laundry. The threads of the cloth are coated 
with starch, and the spaces between the threads are filled. 
This gives stiffness to the material when dry, and prevents 
its mussing, soiling, or staining easily. The usual sources 
of starch are corn, wheat, rice, and potato. Sago and tapio- 
ca both furnish excellent starch, similar in its qualities to 
rice starch. 

Rice starch is capable of great dilution, the granule being 
one of the smallest; it is used for fine muslins. It is manu- 
factured and used very largely in Europe, and is little 
known here. 

Corn starch is cheap and in general use; its stiffening 
quality is high. 

Wheat starch is used in public laundries because its results 

(2T) 



22 Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 

are satisfactory, the material being not only stiff but more 
flexible than when corn starch is used. 

Potato starch is little used except for the filling of cloth 
in factories. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING STARCH 

Mix starch with a small quantity of cold water to a creamy 
consistency, add a little more cold water, and then the de- 
sired amount of absolutely boiling water, stirring constantly. 
Put the starch over the fire and boil it for several minutes, 
to insure complete cooking, and stir it all the time it is 
cooking. Cool or dilute for use. If oil, borax, or wax are 
used, they should be cooked with the starch, but bluing is 
added later. 

The proportions for cooked starch are one measurement 
of starch to eight of boiling water, for thick starch; and one 
measurement of starch to sixteen of boiling water, for thin 
starch. 

Uncooked or partly cooked starch will stick and make 
trouble for the ironer. (Irons must always be hot for 
starched clothes.) The amount of starch needed is regu- 
lated by the number of clothes to be starched. Starch can 
be made thinner by adding water, and it always grows thin- 
ner with use. Starched clothes must never be stiff enough 

to rattle. 

Thick Starch 

Mix % cup starch and 

% cup cold water, add 

% level teaspoonful shaven white wax or lard and 

4 cups (1 qt. ) boiling water. 
Let it boil up several times, to be sure that wax is melted 
and mixed and starch cooked. Add a little bluing and 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 23 



set dish in a pan of cold water until it is cool enough to 

handle. 

Thin Starch 

In a clean granite kettle put 

^ cup starch, 

% level teaspoonful lard or twice as much borax, stir 
smooth with 

yi cup of cold water, then, stirring rapidly, add 

3 pints of boiling water and continue stirring until it 
boils thoroughly. Have holder ready to lift it from the 
fire, or it will boil over. Add. 

I pint of cold water to thin it and reduce the heat, 
and enough bluing to counteract the yellow color of the 
starch. Turn starch into a large dish. If carefully made, 
it need not be strained. 

Rice Starch 

Wash % cup rice, put into 

I quart water, boil it slowly, stir often at first, keep 
up the quantity of water, and cook until the rice is a pulp. 
Add I quart boiling water, and strain through a flannel 
bag (without pressing). If too thick, dilute it with cold 
water, and use while hot. 

RAW STARCH 
To 3 tablespoonsful of the plain starch, add 
I teaspoonful borax and 

I pint of tepid water. Stir well and use at once. 
If prepared starch is used, make in the same way, but 
do not add borax. 

After using, allow the starch, if clean, to stand and set- 
tle, pour the water off, and dry the starch. It may be 
used again as raw starch, or, better, may be made into 

cooked starch. 

BLUING 

Sunshine, moisture, and fresh air are the greatest bleach- 
ers. Could we command a clean grass plot, pure air, and 



24 Appro-ved Methods for Home LcLundering 

sunshine, there would be no need of bluing. Clothes be- 
come yellow from careless washing, dark colored soaps, 
stains, or impure water. To cover up this telltale color, we 
use bluing. Bluing is sold in solid or liquid form. The 
solid is usually insoluble, and is much used. It never dis- 
solves, but the fine particles of blue are all through the 
water while it is in jnotion, and will settle wdien the water 
is undisturbed. These particles lodge in the cloth and give 
it a bluish-white color. 

hidigo, a solid blue, was originally a vegetable product, 
but is now manufactured chemically. It was the first bluing 
known. It varies greatly in quality, and is little used at 
present. 

Ultramarine blue was originally the stone lapis lazuli, 
ground fine, but is now manufactured chemically and sold 
in little blue balls. 

Anilijie blue, either solid or liquid, is a product of coal 
tar, and is a strong dye. This blue is used almost exclu- 
sively by the public laundries. It will not set in an alkaline 
medium, therefore the clothes must be rinsed free from soap 
before using it. To make sure of the color, a little acid is 
added to the water before the clothes are put in. Being a 
dye, it is not easy to wash out if too much is used. 

Prussian blue is usually sold in liquid form. It was first 
manufactured at Berlin, hence its name. Being soluble, it 
is easy to use, and gives a bright blue to the clothes. Prus- 
sian blue is a salt of iron, and, with an alkali, changes to 
iron rust. If the clothes are rinsed free of soap, it may be 
used with good results. If careless work is done, you may 
find the clothes yellow or rusted in fine spots, and be unable 
to account for it. You can assure yourself that the liquid 



Appwved Methods for Home Laundering 25 

is Prussian blue by heating a little of it with a strong solu- 
tion of sal soda. The mixture will turn yellowish red and 
precipitate what is known as iron rust. 

Every laundry cupboard would be more complete if sup- 
plied with the following materials: 

BEESWAX or PARAFFINE, used to fill up and make smooth sad 
irons. It should be tied in a cloth for easier handhng. 

COMMON SALT, a neutral compound, used as a scourer for soiled 
irons, or to set colors. 

AMMONIA, in liquid form (household ammonia), and 

BORAX, a white powder. Both being mild alkalies, they are used 

where soaking rather than rubbing is desirable to loosen the 

dirt, and the color is not to be considered. 
SAL SODA, or washing soda, is used for testing, and to "break " hard 

water. 
JAVELLE WATER is used to take out stains, and to bleach. 
MURIATIC ACID, dilute, a liquid, and 

OXALIC ACID, in crystal form, are used to take out stains. A medi- 
cine dropper is desirable to use with these, as the skin is easily 

roughened by them. 
VINEGAR, used to set colors. It should be colorless. 
GRAIN ALCOHOL, used to dissolve sugar, some medicine, and 

grass stains. 
ETHER will dissolve fat or oil from the more delicate fabrics. 
KEROSENE is a solvent, used in w^ashing and cleaning rubber. 
GASOLINE is used to take out stains and clean gloves and ribbons. 

Being very inflammable, it must be used with great care and 

where there is no flame. 
SULPHUR is used as a bleacher. When burned, the fumes must be 

brought in contact with a moist stain. 
POWDERED CHALK or FULLER'S EARTH is used to absorb 

stains. 
SOAP should be bought in quantity and kept in a clean, dry place. 

If allowed to harden, there is less waste in using. 



Equipment For home laundry 

THE Room, used for laundry work, should be light and 
airy. 
The Stove, if for laundry work exclusively, should 
be one made for the purpose. It need never be blacked. 

Cost, $6.50. 

Tubs, if stationary, should be porcelain lined. Slate is 
next best, but has seams, which are undesirable. Tubs are 
also made of cement. Wood is too absorptive to be clean. 
The height of stationary tubs from the floor is rarely right 
for the average woman. This should be considered when 
they are set. Portable tubs are made of fibre, galvanized 
iron, enamel, or wood. The wooden ones are best if made 
of cedar and brass-bound, but all wooden tubs are heavy, 
and will warp and leak if not kept in a damp place or with 
water in them. Tubs of all kinds must be kept clean, but 
Sapolio must not be used. A scourer of any kind roughens 
the surface and makes it easier for the dirt to lodge. A 
strong soap or sal soda wnll keep the galvanized tub bright, 
but at the expense of the plate, When that is off, the sheet 
iron foundation will rust. 

Cost. No estimate can be given for stationary tubs. 
They are usually put in when the house is built, and the 
local plumber can be consulted. Fibre Tub, $1.35; Galvan- 
ized Iron Tiib, 8jC.; Wooden Tiib, $1.2^. 

Three tubs are necessary for good work. 

A Wash Bench should be of the right height for the 
(26) 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 



27 




LAUNDRY STOVE 



28 Appto'ved Mat hods for Home La.imdering 

user. Thirty-six inches or less from top of tub to floor is 
considered right. The bench may have pegs to hold the 
tubs in place, and often has a support for the wringer set 
between the tubs. 

Cost, ^i.os to $1.2^. ^ 

A Rubbing Board is often moulded into the stationary 
tub, but this is rarely used, probably because it is not of the 
right height or slant. Portable boards are made of brass, 
zinc, or glass, and as long as they are not broken or ragged, 
there seems to be little choice in them, except that the 
rougher ones are better for dirty clothes. 

Cost, j^c. to 75c. 

Washing Machines are very helpful for heavy clothes 
and where large washings are the rule. Many washing 
machines are wood-lined, have a kneading motion, and are 
worked by a lever or crank. Others have an inverted cone, 
worked by a lever, which presses down into the wet clothes 
and sucks the dirt up. The clothes may have to be looked 
over for soiled spots, which must be rubbed. The machine 
must be kept clean, free from dust and rust, and out of the 
weather. 

Cost, $j.g^ up. 

A Wringer saves not only time and strength but the 
clothes as well. A good one will last for years if well 
cared for. Always clean and dry it after using. A little 
kerosene will brighten the rubber when it becomes dull or 
stained, but remember that kerosene cleans by eating off a 
thin layer of rubber every time it is used. Oil the wringer 
occasionally and, when not in use, leave the screws loose, 



Approved Methods for Home L^undert'ng 29 

that the rolls may not become flat. Cover the wringer with 
a cloth to keep it clean. 

Cost, $2.^0 to $6.00. 

The B011.KR may be round or oblong, stationary or port- 
able, but should be very largely of copper, not only for the 
sake of greater durability but also because copper transmits 
heat more readily than almost any other metal. 

Cost, $2.00 to $j.oo. 

A Clothes Stick may be made of an old broomstick, or 
can be bought with a metal-pronged end. 

Cost, 5 to ISC 

A Pail, of enameled ware, galvanized iron, tin, fibre, or 
wood is necessary for changing waters. 

Cost, Fibre, p8c.; Enamel, $1.0^; Wood, joc. to soc.; 
Galvanized Iron, ijc. to 2jc.; Tin, ssc^ 

A Dipper, of enameled ware or tin, is also necessary. 
Tin is so thinly coated on the iron that it soon wears off and 
rust appears. 

Cost, Enamel, j8c.; Tin, 2jc. 

A Dish Pan, of enameled ware, is desirable to hold clothes 
when being carried to and from the boiler. 

Cost, $r .00. to $1.2^. 

A Sauce Pan, of 5 or 6-qt. capacity, is necessary for 
making starch, and this should be of enameled ware, made 
with a bail. 

Cost, 3SC. 7lp. 

A Sauce Pan or Pail is needed in which to make soap 
solution. 

Cost, 2^0. up. 

A Teakettle, of enameled ware or tin, for heating starch 
water. 

Cost, 8jc. up. 



30 Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 

I Case Knife, for shaving soap, wax, etc., and for clean- 
ing irons. 

Cost, I2C. 

I lyARGE Wooden Spoon, for starch making. 

Cost, ^c. 

For measuring or stirring. 

I Tablespoon. 

Cost, i^c. 

I Teaspoon. 

Cost, IOC. 

I Tin Cup {V^ pint, divided into fourths). 

Cost, i^c. 

I Quart Cup. 

Cost, i8c. 

A Mangle or Ironing Machine is desirable if there is 
much flat work — bed and table linen and towels — to be 
ironed. They are little used outside of a public laundry, 
but deserve to be better known. They save much time and 
labor, and, if the rolls are heated, do excellent work with 
careful handling. 

Cost $20.00 to $ J 0.00. 

The Table for sprinkling and ironing should be strong 
and firm, and not more than 32 inches high. For thick 
starch work, the weight of the ironer is often laid upon the 
iron, and her table must be adjusted to her work. For 
ironing, the table should be covered with two thicknesses of 
a wool or cotton blanket, or one of felt, made for the pur- 
pose, and over that a sheet made of firm, smooth cotton, 
preferably half bleached, because it wears longer. Never 
furnish old, half-worn cotton for an ironing sheet. With 
care and an occasional washing, the new cotton will last for 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 



3f 




MANGLE 



32 Appro<ved Methods for Home La.undermg 

months. The sheet should be hemmed and have tapes at- 
tached to it, which are tied under the table and hold it in 
place. 

■ Cost. Table, $2.00 up; laundry settee, j6 in. lo7ig, $4.2^; 
blanket, cotton paddmg 68 in. zvide, $f.io; cotto?i, unbleached, 
^6 in. wide, loc. 

A Skirt Board is used for many things besides skirts. 
It sometimes has a standard attached. If this makes a firm 
board, it is very desirable and can be used for a large part of 
the ironing. The blanket should be tacked on, and the cot- 
ton sheet tied or pinned. 

Cost, 6^c.; (^Jive feet long^ startd ( Udell) gSc; ivith rack un- 
derneath, $1.2^. 

A Bosom Board is needed for shirt ironing, unless the 
end of the skirt board can be used for that purpose. 

Cost, i8c. 

A Sleeve Board is a great help for infants' clothes as 
well as sleeves. 

Cost, s^c. to $1.10. 

An Ironing Stand may be free from or attached to the 
table or board, but it is necessary to protect board and cloth. 

Cost, §c. 

An Ironing Holder of asbestos, may be made or bought. 

Cost, ^c. 

Beeswax or Paraffine, wrapped in cloth, the ends of 
which are covered with a handle, can be bought to keep 
irons smooth. 

Cost, ^c. each. 

A Clothes Horse, which can be folded up when not in 
use, is necessary. It should be light, strong, and made 
with no iron anywhere. 

Cost, y^c. 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 33 




BRUSH FOR SPRINKLING CLOTHES 




SLEEVE BOARD 



34 Approved Methods for Home La.undering 

Sad Irons must have a smooth surface. Niokel-plated 
irons will not rust. Steel-faced irons will keep smooth with 
care. The irons with detachable handle are desirable, but 
the old-fashioned ones will do quite as good work. A gas 
iron has a tube connecting it with the gas pipe, and the gas 
burns inside the iron. An electric iron has wire connections 
with an electric plant^ The heat does not vary in this iron, 
so it can be used continually. 

New irons must be heated thoroughly and rubbed with 
grease or wax before using. Store irons in a warm, dry 
place. If they are to be packed away, rub them with 
vaseline or clean grease and wrap in paper. Irons must 
be kept clean to do good work. Never put a soiled iron 
back onto the stove. Use a dull case knife or piece of steel 
to get the starch off. Sometimes it will be necessary to rub 
them on fine salt sprinkled on paper, or even to wash them 
in soap and water and dry them. Wax rubbed over the 
warm surface and then rubbed off on a cloth or paper will 
keep them smooth. 

Cost, 2 sad irons, 8 lbs. , 40c. each; 2 sad irons, 6 lbs. , joc. each; 
I sad iron, /j. lbs. , 20c. each; i flounce iron, narrow and long, 2sc; 
I or 2 polishers, ^^c. each; set ofj irons, with detachable handle, 
g8c. ; gas or alcohol iroii , 950.; electric iron , $_{. .50 to $6.00. 

Clothes Basket. It should.be light and easily handled. 

Cost, Wicker, y^c. 

A CivOTHES lyiNE, if of rope, must be kept clean by occa- 
sionally washing it. If stationary, it must be wiped with a 
damp cloth before using, whether rope or wire. Rope line, 
if brought into the house after use, must be kept in a clean 
place, free from dust. 

Cost, Rope, 6^c. (^100 ft.) 



Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 35 





MRS. POTTS IRON 



COMMON IRON 




G 



FLOUNCE IRON 



POLISHER 





GAS IRON 



ELECTRIC IRON 



36 A ppro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 

C1.0THES Pins, the ordinary wooden ones, must be washed 
occasionally to keep them clean, and must always be stored 
in a clean, dry place. If in a clothes-pin apron, fold the top 
over the pocket and put on a shelf. 

Cost, 100 for IOC. 

A C1.OTHES-P1N Apron will form a bag for storing the 
clothes pins, as well as a convenient pocket for them when 
needed. To make apron, take a piece of bed ticking or 
something equally strong, have material half a j-ard wide 
and three-quarters of a yard long. Turn up one-quarter of 
a yard on the outside for a pocket, bind the pocket and the 
sides of the apron with tape, tack the pocket in the middle, 
and put the apron on a belt. 

Cost, IOC. to 20c. 

A Whisk Broom for sprinkling clothes, is desirable, and 
works best if the broom is on one side only of the handle. 

Cost, 2^C. 

Scissors. 

Cost, 2^c. and upward. 

A Fringe Brush, to straighten fringe, is made with bris- 
tles on a slant. 
Cost, 2^c. to 80c. 

A Soft Brush for cleaning spots on flannel. 
Cost, 2^C. 

An old Tooth-Brush, for taking out stains. 
A medicine dropper, for taking out stains. 
Cost, ^c. 

A Flannel Bag, for straining rice starch, is made of a 
light quality of flannel, usually with cotton warp. A piece 
about 15 inches square is folded from corner to corner, mak- 



Apprcyved Methods for Home Laundering 37 

iiig a triangle, and is stitched a little more than half way up. 
When in use, the top end is folded over a rod or hook and 
pinned so that the bag does not touch the utensil underneath. 

Cost, IOC. to i^c. 

Old flannel, folded once or twice, is used when ironing 
embroidery or pinning down lace. 

Old cloths are necessary for lining basket, covering 
sprinkled clothes, wrapping up clean clothes, or cleaning off 
spots. 



PRACTICAL LAUNDRY WORK 

a "ULUE Monday," has so long been the day on which 
J_) we plan^to wash that to wash regularly on Tues- 
day takes courage. But, would it be "blue Mon- 
day" if the work did not, beyond reason, heap up on it and 
on the housekeeper? Where one w^oman has everything to 
do, let me suggest this plan of the wreck's work: 

Monday. 

1. Put the house in order. 

2. Plan and cook for Tuesday. 

3. Sort clothes. 

4. Mend clothes (rents grow in washing). 

5. Take out stains (see pages 12 to 16). 

6. Soak soiled clothes. 

7. Lay fire for morning. 

8. Fill boiler. 

9. Get tubs and other things ready. 

In sorting clothes, arrange them in five piles : ■ 

1. Table linen. 

2. Bed linen, body linen, tow^els, handkerchiefs (soak 

in boracic acid solution if they have been used 
for a cold). 

3. Flannels. 

4. Colored cottons and stockings. 

5. Soiled towels and cloths. 

There is no doubt that soaking clothes loosens the dirt 
(38) 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 39 



and makes the work of washing easier, but only white clothes 
can be soaked. It is not wise to soak all kinds of clothes 
together. If three tubs are available, use one for table linen , 
one for bed and body linen, and one for the soiled towels 
and cloths. These last should be soaked, even if the rest 
are not. The table linen will need soaking least of all. Wet 
the clothes, rub soap solution on the soiled parts, fold and 
roll each piece by itself, pack in a tub, cover with warm, 
soapy water, and let them stand overnight. By doing this, 
the dirt from soiled parts will not get into the clean parts. 

Tuesday. 

1. Light fire and heat water. 

2. Make soap solution. 

3. Do washing. (Special order of washing wnll be 

discussed later.) 

4. Sprinkle and roll clothes. 
Wednesday. 

1. Iron and bake. 

2. Do thick starching. 

Thursday 

Finish ironing. 

Friday. 

Put house in order. 

Saturday. 

Bake and plan for Sunday. 

ORDER OF DAY'S WORK OUTLINED 

(^Details are given on folloiving pages) 

Tuesday. 

I . Heat water. 



40 Appro'vcd Methods for Home Laundering 

2. Make soap solution. 

3. Wash flannels or silk underwear. These require 

no boiling and only warm water, and, if rinsed 
and hung out at once, will be dry before the line 
is needed for other things. 

4. Wash stockings. 

5. Using warm, clean suds, wash cleanest things first: 

Table linen, 
Bed linen, 
Towels, 

Body linen, -* ^■^/' 

Handkerchiefs, 
Soaked clothes. 
Make fresh suds whenever necessary. It is a mis- 
take to think you can wash clothes clean in dirty 
water. 

6. Boil. Put clothes into cold water with soap solu- 

tion. Let them come slowly to the boiling point, 
then let them boil for ten minutes. The longer 
they are coming to the boil the better. 

7. Rinse in two or three waters. The more waters, 

the whiter and cleaner the clothes. 

8. Blue. Shake out each piece and put through the 

bluing water. Never allow clothes to stand in 
bluing water, or they will become streaked. 

9. Starch whatever needs thin starch. 

10. Hang out, putting pieces of a kind together, and 

have the threads of the cloth straight. 

1 1 . Wash colored clothes. 

12. Take down, piece by piece. Never crush clothes 

into a basket. 



ApproTJed Methods for Home Laundering 41 



13. Dampen and roll up. 

WASHING OF LINEN AND COTTON 

WHITE Clothes 

Heat water in boiler. 

Place tub on bench and rubbing board in place. Be sure 
that both are clean. 

Pour warm water into tub. 

Add soap solution and have some near by. 

Take cleanest clothes first, soaked ones last. 

Rubbing is necessary for soiled clothes. Bench and board 
should be of the right height, so that the arms, rather than 
the back, will do the work. Rub soap or soap solution on 
the articles, drop it to the foot of the board, hold the goods 
firmly with both hands, but in such a way that the cloth, 
not the hands, will get the benefit of the rubbing. While 
rubbing up and down the board gradually gather the cloth 
into the hands, then turn the article and rub the other side 
in the same way. Soiled parts may need extra soap and 
rubbing. Garments should be left wrong-side out, to pro- 
tect the right side from dust, etc. , while drying. Take fresh 
suds whenever water becomes dirty. Delicate fabrics should 
be rubbed between the hands, the fleshy parts of the thumb 
being employed instead of the board. 

Put clothes through a carefully adjusted clean wringer. 
Wringing by hand is not only hard work, but it strains 
the cloth. When using the wringer, fasten it firmly in a 
convenient place, adjust the screws to bring the rolls close 
together, and fold the cloth so that it will be even in thick- 
ness when going through the machine. Be sure to fold all 
buttons and hooks inside the garment and turn the wringer 



42 Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 

slowly. For blankets or heavy material the wringer must 
be loosely adjusted. 

Second suds is usually necessary. Shake out clothes 
from wringer and drop into fresh, warm suds. When the 
tub is partly filled, look over clothes for spots that may 
need rubbing; then wring again into a clean basket or pail. 
The clothes are now. ready for 

Boiling. Clothes should be clean before they are boiled, 
but if any soiled or yellow parts have not jaelded to rubbing, 
put soap on them before they go into the boiler. Half fill 
the boiler with cold soft water and enough soap solution to 
make a light lather. Shake out each piece and drop it into 
the water. All white clothes should be boiled, and the best 
results are obtained when there is a large quantity of water 
and the boiler is but half full of clothes. Results are decided- 
ly best when the clothes take a long time to reach the boil- 
ing point and boil about ten minutes. A clean stick is 
necessary for handling the hot clothes. If the clothes grow 
yellow in boiling, it may be due to a poor quality of soap, 
water containing iron, or poor washing. The color given 
by dark resin soap may be taken out by kerosene. This 
should be used only occasionally and in the proportion of two 
tablespoonfuls to a boiler of clothes. Boiling should not be 
omitted or slighted. The germs that make bad-smelling 
clothes are easily killed by boiling. Disease germs may 
need longer boiling — an hour at least, or several boilings; 
but this is usually done under a doctor's directions. 

After the white clothes have been boiled (and clean, cold 
water should be used for each new boilerful) the lamp cloths 
may go into the hot water without previous washing, kero- 
sene being the agent that cleanses them. They must be well 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 43 

rinsed to get rid of the kerosene smell, and for this purpose 
hot water is better than cold. 

Ruising is very important, for clothes must be free from 
soap before bluing, especially if 3'ou use the liquid blue. Lift 
the clothes slowly out of the boiler into a clean pail or dish- 
pan, and drain them to get rid of the soapy water before 
dropping them into the rinsing water. Use soft water for 
the first rinsing, then hard water if color of rain water is not 
good. The first rinsing water should be warm, or the soapy 
curd will harden on the clothes, and it may be necessary to 
rub to get it off. A second, and even a third, rinsing water 
is desirable. It is careless rinsing that leaves clothes a bad 
color, and no amount of bluing will cover it up. Use the 
wringer for rinsing and bluing waters — in fact, whenever 
possible. 

Bhmig. We have grown to like clothes of a blue-white 
color. The more sunshine and fresh air, the less blue is 
needed. No rule or proportion can be given for bluing. 
The quantity to be used must be regulated by the color and 
the amount of clothes to be blued. Often more blue must 
be added, or a fresh water made. Tie the solid blue in a 
thick cloth, flannel preferred, wet it, and squeeze out. Make 
a strong solution of bluing in hot water, using a dipper or 
small pan to hold it in, and from this add what is needed to 
the tub of water. Take a little of the solution in the palm 
of the hand to test it. It should be of a pale blue color. 
Hard water may be used for bluing if color of soft is not 
good. When bluing water is right in color, stir it up and 
use at once. Remember that if it stands the solid blue will 
settle, and clothes that touch the bottom or sides of the tub 
will become streaked with blue. Shake out each article and 



44 Appro<ved Methods for Home La.undering 

drop it into the bluing water; then very soon wring it out 
and drop it into a clean basket. Unstarched clothes are now 
ready for the line. Clothes requiring thick or raw starch 
should also go onto the line to get the sun and air. 

Starching comes next for those clothes requiring thin starch : 
aprons, shirt-waists, the trimming of underwear, etc. Make 
the starch according to directions given on page 23. The 
amount of starch needed depends upon the number of gar- 
ments to be starched. Those that should be stiffest must be 
starched first. Dry or thick materials take up more starch 
than wet or thin ones, and the starch may need to be thinned 
with water for some garments. When only part of a gar- 
ment is to be starched, gather that part into the hand and 
dip it into the starch, rub it well, then squeeze out the extra 
starch. This must be done by hand, the rest of the gar- 
ment being held out of the way. The starched pieces are 
hung out with the rest. 

Drying. Sunshine and fresh air are so valuable in bleach- 
ing and purifying clothes that we cannot afford to dry 
clothes indoors if we can control a bit of outdoors. To aid 
in the bleaching, put clothes out without wringing, or let 
them lie on the grass and moisten them frequently. 

,The line must be wiped with a damp cloth, and the clothes- 
pin bag, which is also an apron, must be tied on. In cold 
weather the laundress should protect herself with a sweater 
or short jacket, a hood, and white mittens. Hang each .piece 
so that the threads of the material are straight and the gar- 
ment is as nearly as possible in the shape desired when ready 
to use again. This helps greatly to simplify the rest of the 
work, and, if ironing for every piece is impossible, you will 
have straight, sweet, sun-dried clothes to wear or use, with- 



Appro-ved Methods for Home Laundering 45 



out any further work except folding. Many people prefer 
the odor of sun-dried clothes, and if the wind whips out the 
wrinkles, they are very acceptable. Ribbed underwear, 
stockings, towels, and often sheets and pillowcases, can be 
finished in this way when economy in laundry work must 
be practiced — but always the ribbed underwear. Hang 
pieces of a kind together and place hems well over the line 
before pinning. Hems rather than selvages should go over 
the line. Consider how things will dry quickly, and never 
let water run into gathers or pockets, or have puckers and 
corners to stretch out and straighten later. When clothes 
are dry, take them down carefully, shake them free from 
dust and possible insects, and fold them lightly (never crush 
them) into the basket. 

Dampening or sprinkling is usually done the last thing 
at night. Cover the table with a clean cloth, fill a basin 
with warm water, and use a clean whisk broom for sprink- 
ling. The whisk should be kept for this purpose only. 
A patent sprinkler may be used, or the hand, but the drops 
should always be small. Sprinkle each large piece, fold 
sides and ends into the middle, then roll lightly. Lay small 
pieces together before rolling. Linen should be very damp. 
Pack all the rolls into the basket and cover tightly. Sprinkle 
only what can be ironed the next day. If kept damp too 
long, in hot weather especially, the clothes may mildew. 

Ironing is the finish of good laundry work and the test of 
the laundress. It is done to make clothes smooth, to make 
them feel better and stay clean longer. Have ready an 
ironing table or board, tightly covered with a blanket and a 
clean ironing sheet, an iron stand, and clean irons — and to 
keep the irons clean and the sheet unsoiled, have at hand 



46 Approved Methods for Home Laundering 

beeswax in a cloth, a piece of old cloth, and a piece of clean 
paper, folded three or four times, to try the irons on. To 
moisten the clothes if they become dry, there should be a 
bowl of clean water and a clean, soft cloth. A large piece of 
paper may be spread on the floor to protect any pieces that 
may hang to the floor. If the irons are heated by gas, they 
must be wiped off several times while heating, else the 
moisture that collects on the cold iron will form rust and soil 
the clothes. A laundress's test for a hot iron is to hold it 
near her cheek for a few seconds. If too hot for this, it is 
too hot to use. But it is better to try the iron on a piece of 
old cloth. Another test is to touch the bottom of the iron 
with a wet finger; if it hisses, it is hot — the shorter the hiss, 
the hotter the iron. 

Shake or stretch the article to be ironed into shape and 
place on board, having threads of cloth straight. Iron with 
right hand from right to left, using the left hand to arrange 
the material, but occasionally iron with the left hand. As 
the material is ironed, bring it over the table or board toward 
you. First iron the part that will wrinkle least, leaving the 
plain, straight parts until the last. Ruffles and trimming 
should be ironed first. Lace must be stretched into shape be- 
fore ironing and again afterward, to soften it. Best results 
are attained when the iron follows the long warp thread of the 
material. The cloth should be left dry, especially bands, 
hems, and seams, or they will wrinkle. Linen must be very 
wet, and must be ironed with a heavy iron until perfectly 
dry. This gives a smooth, glossy surface and firmness to 
the material. For heavy materials use heavy irons; for thin 
materials, lighter irons, and for gathers, a narrow, pointed 
iron. Iron quickly with an iron hot, yet not hot enough to 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 47 



scorch. If the material becomes dry or soiled, dampen or 
rub it with a soft cloth. 

Folding does not improve the appearance of articles, but it 
is necessary in order to store things and keep them from 
mussing. In general, all pieces should be folded several 
times lengthwise, then softly crosswise, until of convenient 
shape for handling. The trimming, if any, should show, 
and usually it governs the shape of the folded garment. 

Airing is necessary to perfectly dry the clothes; the clothes 
should hang over night on the bars, and be sorted, mended, 
and put away the next day. Damp clothes are a menace to 
health. Clothes should be aired in clean, pure air, that they 
may smell sweet and be free from dust. 



Directions for Special 
articles 

TABLE Clotlisjiiust be freed from stains before washing, 
and must be shaken and hung straight on the line, the 
selvage folded six inches over at least; the cloths 
may be doubled — there will be less chance for them to whip out 
at the corners. Fold several times when taking from the line 
and never crush into the basket. If the directions for hang- 
ing linen straight are followed there will be nothing further 
to do, but if the linen has dried crooked and is stiff, it must be 
straightened after it is dampened. For this, two people are 
needed, one at each end, to shake and stretch it into shape. 
Let each person gather the cloth into her hands just below 
the hem ; hold the selvages tightly wnth the little fingers, the 
rest hold loosely; then, with both hands held high and close 
together, at a signal throw the hands quickly down and out. 
Repeat this several times if necessary, then fold selvages to- 
gether, right side out. When ready to iron, lay hems on 
table with the rest of the cloth at the back of the table to 
keep it damp, iron one side the full length of cloth until 
only partly dry, then the other side until perfectly dry. A 
hot, heavy iron is necessary, and irons must be changed 
often. This method will give you a firm, glossy linen that 
will hold its shape and look well. If it is possible to store 
it with only one long fold, it will look better; if not, fold 
again and iron fold in. Never press crossfolds. Hang the 
cloth to dry, and fold it very lightly when ready to put 

(48J 



Approved Methods for Home Laundering 49 

away. All folds may be put on the right side of the cloth 
in the following manner: After ironing both sides, open it 
and bring selvages together in the one middle fold on the 
wTong side, iron the new folds, and lay sides together to air 
and put away. 

Very old^or thin linen may need the least bit of starch in 
it. One cupful of thin starch to half a pail of bluing water 
will be enough. The linen will be a little firm and glossy, 
but it must not show that it has been starched. 

Napkins also must be very damp, and must be ironed until 
dry. Stretch into shape, and place on board right side up 
and hem in front of you. Iron both sides, then lay hems 
together square and true and make two lengthwise folds, 
then two crosswise folds, and iron all folds in. The test of 
a well-ironed napkin is smooth, glossy linen and square, true 
corners, all even. Napkins may be ironed double, like a 
tablecloth. If the napkin is small, it may be folded into 
thirds like a fan, first one way, then the other. Embroider- 
ed napkins must be ironed on the wTong side, over several 
thicknesses of flannel, to bring out the design, then the rest 
of the napkin must be ironed dry and glossy. The em- 
broidery must appear on the outside when folded. Fringe 
must be whipped and brushed straight, never starched. 

Carving cloths, tray cloths, centre pieces and doilies should 
have hems and corners true. They are never folded, but 
should be loosely rolled if too large to lie flat in a drawer. 

Towels, if of damask, are ironed on both sides, then folded 
twice lengthwise. If of coarser weave, iron one side, then 
iron the other side as you fold it. Bath towels should never 
be ironed. 

Handkerchiefs are made very damp, ironed smooth and 



50 Appro-ved Methods for Home La.tindermg 

straight with a hot iron, and folded as a napkin is folded. 
Embroidery should be ironed on the wrong side, appearing 
on the outside when handkerchief is folded. 

Sheets and Pillowcases are sometimes made of linen but 
more often of cotton. If trimmed, they will require starch- 
ing. The whole or the trimmed part of the pillowcase and 
one quarter of a yard from the edge of the wide-hem end of 
the sheet, may be dipped into thin starch. The starched 
parts must be thoroughly dampened and ironed smooth and 
dry with a hot iron. Turn the pillowcase when ready to 
iron it. See that the corners are pulled out and that the 
cloth is straight. Iron trimming, then one side of the pil- 
lowcase, and, as you fold it, iron the other side. All folds 
are lengthwise. Shake the sheet as you do the tablecloth. 
If unstarched, this may be done before dampening. Fold 
once lengthwise, right side out, then crosswise ; bring the 
hems together and sprinkle them, leaving the rest of the 
sheet dry. Fold the dampened parts together and roll up. 
Use a heavy iron for sheets — one weighing eight or ten 
pounds is best. Iron the dampened parts separately and the 
dry parts together. Fold lengthwise and hang to air. 

Nightgoivns have only the trimming at neck and sleeves 
starched. Sprinkle the entire garment, and fold starched 
parts and hem inside before rolling. When ready to iron, 
turn garment on right side and iron trimming first. Then 
lay body lengthwise of board or table, iron front, then back 
— or put it on the board and iron a single thickness at a 
time. Fasten at throat, and fold the body to width of yoke, 
making a long, narrow strip, then fold crosswise to the depth 
of yoke. Let sleeve ends show at sides of yoke. 

Drawers have only the trimming starched. Iron band or 



ApproTjed Methods for Home Laundering 



5t 




FOLDING OF NIGHT DRESSES 



52 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 




2. 



V 



3. 



qTTTTf 

4. 



FOLDING OF DRAWERS 



Appro'ved Methods for Home L^undenng 



53 




1. 



2. 



>? 
vt 






4. 



r^¥^^^ 



0. 



THE FOLDING OF CORSET COVERS 



54 



Appwved Methods for Home Laundering 






U^ 



FOLDING OF CHEMISES 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 55 

3'oke first, then trimming and then body of garment. Fold 
to show trimming only. 

Corset Covers need thin starch all over. Dampen, fold 
right side in, and roll. Iron trimming first, straighten each 
section of garment and, if a fitted corset cover, lay seams on 
the edge of the board nearest you. Iron each section 
smooth, having threads of material straight. If this is 
carefully done, the garment will fit and look as well as when 
new. Fasten at throat, and fold to show trimming. 

Pettieoxts need to be starched only at the bottom, but a 
little thin starch will make the top iron more easily. Gather 
the hem and trimming into the hands and put into the starch. 
Rub them a little, so that the starch may be evenly distribut- 
ed, wring out well by hand (or the wringer may be used), 
shake, and hang straight to dry. Dampen well and, when 
ready to iron, turn onto the right side. Iron band or yoke 
first, then ruffies. Keep the damp part in a bunch, that it 
may not dry out. Put skirt onto board, hem to the right. 
Iron hem first, then between ruffles, and lastly the body of 
each section lying on the board. Thoroughly dry each 
part. Use a damp cloth freely for parts that are soiled or 
too dry to iron smooth. Take skirt from the board and 
hang to air. Fold by laying the middles of the back and 
front together, then fold each half back upon itself fan-like, 
making a long strip, which now fold loosely from band to 
trimming. 

Shirts, Collars, and Cuffs require thick starch, special 
directions for the use of which will be found on page 22. 

Shirt-waists, if colored, must be carefully washed accord- 
ing to directions given for ' 'colored clothes.' ' Dip the shirt- 
waist into thin starch; wring out, and hang waist to dry in 



56 Appwved Methods for Home L^undermg 

the shape in which it should be worn. If the material is hea- 
vy, no starch will be needed, except, possibly, for neckband, 
pleat, and cuffs. If the waist is thin or fancy, with soft 
cuffs, it will need no further starching. If neckband and 
cuffs are to be stiff, thick starch may be rubbed in when 
shirt collars and cuffs are starched ; or raw starch may be 
made when ready to dampen waist, and the neckband, front 
pleat perhaps, and cuffs may be dipped into it, rubbed well 
and squeezed nearly dry. Sprinkle the rest of the waist, 
fold and roll. When embroidery or design of material is to 
be brought out, iron on wrong side. When plain, take 
polisher or ordinary iron of small size for the neck and cuffs. 
Best work can always be done with the part to be ironed 
straight and near to the front edge of the table, right under 
the ironer. Iron the neckband and cuffs first on the right 
side, then on the wrong, then again on the right side to dry 
and polish. Use the ordinary iron for the rest of the waist; 
fold the sleeve at seam and iron on top side nearly to fold. 
With hand inside sleeve, loosen the two sides, then iron 
lower side of sleeve. With hand inside again, change po- 
sition of unironed part and smooth it with narrow iron, leav- 
ing no crease in sleeve. Place small iron inside sleeve at 
top, and smooth gathers. Do this also at cuffs if possible. 
If sleeve board is used, these directions are unnecessary. 
The fronts are usually ironed next and the back last. 
Stretch front pleat and tucks into shape, place pleat next 
you on the board, and iron until perfectly dry. Lastly, put 
iron upon seams and leave them perfectly dry. Smooth all 
creases and hang waist to air. 



Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 5? 

THICK STARCHING 

The most approved way of stiffening shirt bosoms, collars, 
and cuffs, is by the use of thick, boiled starch. Raw starch 
carefully used will produce a similar result. Make thick 
starch as shown on page 22. For rubbing in starch, use 
a clean table or, better still, stretch over the table a heavy, 
damp cloth, and fasten it securely by pins or strings. On 
the table place the starch, a bowl of water, and a clean, soft 
cloth. 

Dip shirts into water and wring as dr}^ as possible. Have 
them still wrong side out, shake them straight, stretch the 
neckband or collar into shape, and lay it upon the table 
wrong side up. Rub starch into it with the hand, especially 
on seams and edges, until it feels full of starch. Put a little 
starch into the back of the yoke. Take a damp cloth and 
rub off lightly any extra starch. Stretch the bosom into 
shape and place it on the table wrong side up. The back of 
the shirt will lie beneath it. On the bosom lay the two cuffs 
or wristbands straight and wrong side up. Rub starch into 
the cuffs from the wrong side until it appears on the right 
side and the cuff feels full of starch. Rub off any extra 
starch with a damp cloth, and smooth out any wrinkles on 
the right side of the cuff. Rub starch into the bosom the 
same way, "clear it off," turn it onto the right side, and 
work out all wrinkles. Leave all parts as smooth and true 
as you wish them to be when ironed. Separate the back 
from the front, hang bosom toward the fire, have neckband 
in shape, tab turned up, and cuffs straight. Allowing parts 
to dry in shape makes the work of ironing comparatively easy. 
Treat separate collars and cuffs in the same way as the shirt 
and pin them onto a cloth, or string them together to dry. 



58 ApproTJed Methods for Home Laundering 

Thick starch work is never dampened by sprinkUng, but 
by contact with a wet cloth. It is better to dampen the 
clothes overnight, but four or five hours' pressure will an- 
swer. Dip the lower half of the shirt into water and wring 
it half dry, turn half of the wet part over the bosom and 
half over the back. Place the cuffs on the bosom, fold the 
sides toward the cgntre, and roll from the neck down, or, 
better still, place one shirt upon another, and over all a cloth, 
board and heavy weight. 

To iron a shirt yow need an ironing table, a bosom board, 
a knife to clean the irons, wax, a bowl of water, a clean 
cloth, and polishing, as well as ordinary flat-irons. Turn 
the shirt right side out, double the back in the middle and 
iron it quickly with a common iron. Iron the yoke. 
Straighten the cuffs, and with a polisher, iron first the wrong 
side slightly, then the right side until dry and polished. To 
polish successfully, great pressure must be used. The 
weight of the body is often brought down upon the iron. 
Iron the sleeve just above the cuff. Next, iron the neckband 
on the wrong side, and polish the inside of the yoke, because 
it shows wdien the shirt is folded. Dry and polish the right 
side of the band. If the collar is attached to the shirt, iron 
it first, but do not turn it over until you are ready to fold 
the shirt, then fold carefully with the hand, and press it 
with the iron in the middle of the back. Put shirt on bosom 
board. If the shirt is open in front, iron the upper side 
first; iron lightly, then dry and polish. Then iron the lower 
side of the bosom, then both together until perfectly dry. 
Be sure the sides are of equal length and the eyelet holes 
coincide. If the shirt is closed in front, iron the side near 
you first, then the pleat in the middle, raise the pleat with a 



Appwved Methods for Home La.undering 



59 





X 






u. 



3. 



\^ 




5. 

FOLDING OF SHIRTS 



60 Appro'ved Methods for Home La.undertng 

dull knife. I^astly, iron the side from you, working toward 
the outside of the bosom. Always work lightly and slowly 
at first until the part begins to dry out, then w4th force and 
faster, to dry thoroughly and polish. After the bosom, iron 
the cloth next to it and the tab. Take the shirt from the 
bosom board, place it, front down, on the table, iron the 
back of the sleeves, turn the shirt, iron the front of the 
sleeves and the front of the garment. Fasten the neckband 
together, lay the shirt in shape, bosom up, and iron a fold 
in the yoke near the band. Turn the shirt over and fold 
sleeves onto the back. Next, fold body of garment onto the 
back, making a strip the width of the bosom. Fold this 
strip to size of bosom and hang the garment to air. 

Collars and Cuffs are ironed with the polisher first lightly 
on the wrong side, then on the right side to dry and polish. 
Curl them when quite dry with a common iron, and turn the 
corners if desired. Before curling, warm the collar with the 
iron, place it rightside down, and hold iron in right hand on 
the end of collar toward you. Take that end in your left 
hand, have edge of iron close to it and, as the iron recedes, 
follow it closely with the left hand. Do this several times, 
and from both ends, until the collar assumes its proper shape. 
Practice and dexterity only will make an expert at this 
work. If "domestic finish" is desired for linen, the gloss 
can be taken off with a damp cloth. Wring the cloth as 
dry as possible and rub lightly, preferabl}^ when the linen 
is warm. 

A damp cloth is necessary in thick starch to take out 
wrinkles or remove dirt. Wring the cloth very dry and 
work lightly with it— pat rather than rub. Always have 
clean irons. If the iron sticks, it may be dirty or too cool. 



Appwved Methods for Home Laundering 6i 

Never return an iron to the fire without being sure that it 
is clean. 

CLEAR STARCHING 

Thin Muslins, fine Handkerchiefs, and Infants' Caps and 
Dresses should be clear starched. A very thin starch is used 
which has a clear appearance, hence the name. This may 
be made from corn starch, in the proportion of one level 
tablespoonful of starch to one quart of water. Boil ten 
minutes. Rice starch is even better. Make according to 
directions given on page 23. It will probably be necessary 
to dip a bit of material into the starch and iron it to find out 
when the starch is right. The muslin should be as stiff as 
when new, never stiff enough to crack and rattle. 

Use Ivory Soap for all fine work — and Ivory Soap solution 
is better still. If the material is soiled, soak it, then wash 
it very carefully, squeezing rather than rubbing. If it must 
be rubbed, lay it on a piece of white cloth, and rub both to- 
gether betw^een the hands. Boil it in a bag to protect the 
delicate fabric; or, if not very much soiled, pour an abun- 
dance of absolutely boiling water over it and let it stand. 
Rinse the material well, blue it, and put it into the thin, hot 
starch. Squeeze it out, and lay it betw^een cloths for a few 
moments to absorb the moisture. Shake out the material, 
and pat or clap it between the hands until it is dry enough 
to iron. Pull it gently into shape, put it on the table, and 
iron it on the right side unless it is embroidered. The em- 
broidery must be ironed on the wrong side over flannel, and 
then the muslin on the right. Being thin, the muslin will 
dry out quickly. Use a damp cloth freely, and leave each 
part dry, smooth, and free from wrinkles. 



62 Appro<ved Methods for Home Laundering 

COLORED CLOTHES 

The work of the dyer has improved until now almost all 
wash goods are considered fast in colors. However, this does 
not mean that they may be treated as you would treat white 
clothes. The dyes are of two kinds: substantive, those that 
combine with the material to be dyed, and adjective, those 
that attach themselves to, rather than combine with, the ma- 
terial. To the former class belong the wools and silks; to 
the latter, the linens and cottons. From the tough, resistant 
character of the linen and cotton fibres, we can understand 
that they will not readily take up color and that, if they do, 
they will part with it easily. Strong soaps, hot water, and 
even sunshine tend to weaken their color, so that the great- 
est care must be used in washing colored clothes, especially 
if the color is delicate. We know that most reds, pinks, and 
blacks are fast, but w^e are never sure of anything until we 
have washed a sample and dried it. If the color suffers, try 
to set it with a solution of salt, white vinegar, borax, alum, 
or sugar of lead (a strong poison). These may be used in 
the proportion of one level tablespoonful of any one of them 
to a gallon of water. None but a "neutral" soap must be 
used, and sometimes starch water rather than soap. The 
starch is ver}^ very thin, and is used as you would use suds. 
Ordinarily, good results are obtained by following the direc- 
tions given below : 

Make a warm suds of Ivory Soap and water, and quickly 
wash, rinse, and hang out to dry one garment at a time. 
Should the water be colored by the goods, take fresh w^ater 
for the next garment. Never rub soap on the goods, nor 
the goods on the board — except the edges of the hem if very 



Approved Methods for Home Laundermg 63 



much soiled. Squeeze or rub it gently by hand. When 
clean, rinse it several times, until the last water is clear, and 
use acidified water if necessary. The use of alum water will 
make garments less inflammable. If you want to strengthen 
a blue, use bluing. Starch the garment at once in thin 
starch, after turning it wrong side out; shake it into shape, 
and hang it to dry in the shade. When dry, dampen and 
roll up the garment, but only a short time before ironing. 
Muslins, prints, and ginghams should be ironed on the wrong 
side whenever possible, as it makes the material look like new. 

HOSIERY 

Merino, or ordinary woolen hose, as well as silk hose, must 
be washed according to directions given for washing flannels. 
Wash black or colored cotton hose in clean suds; otherwise, 
white particles will adhere to them. If the fastness of the 
color is in doubt, wash the foot first, holding the leg out of 
the water. Rub soap carefully on the foot, wash it, put in 
the entire stocking, wash quickly, turn it wrong side out, 
wash, rinse and wring it, stretch and shake it into shape, and 
hang it to dry. When nearly dry, iron on the wrong side 
with a warm (not hot) iron. Put the hand into the foot of 
the stocking and, as you draw out the hand, follow with the 
iron, or fold the stocking at the seam and iron flat. If stock- 
ings are embroidered the design must have no fold or crease 

in it. 

WOOLS 

Woolen material will easily shrink if carelessly handled. 
(See chapter on fibres for explanation of shrinking.) A 
"neutral" soap must be used, and if a soap claims to wash 
without shrinking, it does so only because you follow care- 



64 Appro'ved Methods for Home La,andermg 

fully the directions that come with the soap. Strong soaps 
or alkalies, except the milder ones — borax and ammonia — 
weaken the fibre and make it more liable to shrink. The 
rubbing on of soap of any kind is not desirable, because you 
must get it out, and it may require the rubbing of the ma- 
terial, which tends more than anything else to mat the wool 
and shrink the garraent. Hot water and then cold must not 
be used, because heating expands the fibres, and as they lie 
so close together, they may interlock; then, when the cold 
contracts the fibres, they cannot unlock. As a consequence, 
the material shrinks. Extremes of temperature, then, are to 
be avoided. 

Shake the dust out of the flannel. Make warm suds with 
Ivory Soap solution. Have it about 120° Fahrenheit, that 
is, so the hands can very comfortably be held in the water. 
If the garment is quite soiled, add a half tablespoonful of 
household ammonia for each gallon of water, and let the gar- 
ment soak for ten minutes. Draw the garment through the 
hands, work it up and down, and squeeze it, but do not rub 
soap on it or rub it on the board. Put it through the wringer, 
turn the garment wrong side out and put it through a second 
suds the same temperature as the first. If any soiled spot 
does not yield to this treatment, lay it upon the table or other 
smooth surface, hold it straight, and rub it briskly with a 
small brush. If necessary, use a little soap solution on the 
brush. Rinse the garment quickly through several waters 
of the same temperature as the first water. If hard water is 
used for rinsing, soften it with a very little soap solution. 
Rinse flannel until the water is clear. Put it through the 
wringer or squeeze the water out; do not twist it. Shake it 
or hang it out to dry where it is warm. Never where it is 



Appwved Methods for Home LsLundering 65 

so hot that the garment will steam, or where it is cold. 
Guard against extremes of temperature. Stretch the gar- 
ment into shape as it dries. This is especially true of ribbed 
underwear, which also does not need to be ironed. Press 
flannel when nearly dry, on the wrong side, until perfectly 
dry, using a moderately warm iron. Never have the iron 
so hot that the flannel will steam, and press, rather than rub 
it. Closely twisted and woven wool will shrink less than 
loosely woven materials. 

Wooleji dress goods of any kind must be washed as flannels 
are. Try first a sample, to see what treatment is necessary. 
Set the color, if it runs, and work quickly. Ammonia will 
usually brighten black goods. • Wring loosely from one water 
to the other, and if the material wrinkles badly, take it from 
the last water without wringing, and hang it b}^ the edge to 
dry. Put over the ironing sheet a cover of cotton cloth, 
fast in color and about the color of the material to be ironed. 
While yet damp, put the material on the table wrong side up, 
and iron till perfectly dry, with a warm (not hot) iron. Air 
the material, then roll, but do not fold it, and it will look 

like new. 

BLANKETS 

Select a warm, sunny, breezy day for washing blankets. 
First shake the dust out, then soak the blankets in warm 
suds of Ivory Soap for thirty minutes. Work them up and 
down in the water, squeeze them against the sides of the 
tub, and put them through the wringer, loosely adjusted, into 
another strong suds of the same temperature as the first. Stir 
about and soak for ten minutes, stretch soiled parts over a 
smooth surface, and rub with a brush, using a little of a so- 
lution of Ivory Soap cut up and dissolved in hot water. 



66 Approved Methods for Home La.undering 

Rinse in several warm waters — or until both blanket and 
water are clean — then hang to dry in the open air. Hang 
the blankets so that they will dry straight. When perfectly 
dry, rub the surface with a soft flannel cloth and hang them 
near a stove or in a warm room for several hours. For each 
pair of blankets allow a half cake of Ivory Soap. 

SILKS 

Silk fibre is smooth and shiny, and for best results re- 
quires the same treatment in the laundry as wool. If 
rubbed hard, the fibre is broken and the shiny effect lost. 
It should never be boiled. 

Wash silk carefully in warm water, with Ivory Soap solu- 
tion in it. Soak twenty minutes if necessary, and take fresh 
suds for the washing. Do not rub silk except with a soft 
nail brush over a smooth surface. Rinse in several warm 
waters until the last water is clear. Place between dry 
towels and put through wringer loosely adjusted, or squeeze 
water from it and hang to dry where you can watch it. 
When nearly dry, iron with a very moderate iron, until per- 
fectly dry. If the iron is hot, the silk will be stiff. A thin 
muslin spread over the silk before ironing may give better 
results when material is thin. If silk is colored, it will be 
better to try a sample, and to set it as you would colored 
cottons, with salt or vinegar. 

Silk Crape, or silk of fancy weave, that does not require 
ironing may be taken from the last water w^ithout wringing, 
spread straight and smooth upon a clean table and allowed 
to dry there. It will look like new. 

Lay Ribbons out smooth upon the table and brush them 
with a nail brush dipped in soapy water. Brush both sides. 



Appwved Methods for Home L^undermg 67 



When clean, rinse without squeezing, and draw through the 
hands, and while quite wet, spread straight and true upon a 
clean, smooth surface to dry or iron when nearly dry under 
a cloth. 

Wash Chiffon in soapy water, rinse carefully, clap dry, 
stretch into shape, and iron on the wrong side wath a cool 
iron. 

Wash Silk-embroidered Linen in Ivory Soap solution and 
water, rubbing soiled parts with a brush. Rinse till clear. 
If color is inclined to run, do not wring but lay between dry 
cloths and iron immediately. Always iron w-rong side up 
over several thicknesses of flannel, to make the embroidery 
stand out. When dry, turn it onto the right side and iron 
the linen between the embroidery. 

Silk-ribbed U7ide rwear vrnsi be washed in warm Ivory Soap 
and water, to which a tablespoonful of household ammonia 
for each gallon of water has been added. It may be soaked 
for ten minutes, then quickly w^ashed, rinsed, and dried. 
Do not iron it, but stretch it until it is soft. 

Velvet to be renewed must be passed over steam and 

brushed lightly against the nap meanwhile. A device can 

be bought to attach to the nose of the teakettle, or steam 

can be produced by covering an inverted hot flatiron with 

several thicknesses of wet cloth over which the velvet is 

drawn. 

LACES 

7?m/ laces are rarely w^ashed, because they thicken slight- 
ly, and require very careful handling to make them appear 
like new. 

Wash While Lace in warm water with Ivory Soap and a 
little ammonia. Soak it for an hour, then use fresh water. 



68 Appro'ved Methods for Home Laundering 

Do not rub, but squeeze the dirt out. If the lace is very 
yellow, put soapy water over it and set it in the sun for a 
day or two. When it is clean, rinse well. If you wish the 
lace cream color, add strong coffee to the last rinsing water. 
If you wish it white, add a little bluing. To give lace the 
body it had when new, stiffen it in gum arabic water, made 
by dissolving a piece of gum arabic the size of a pea in one 
half pint of boiling water. Lay the lace between cloths to 
absorb the moisture, clap it until nearly dry, pull it into 
shape, and pin it onto flannel straight and true. Be sure 
that each point is in shape and that every loop of the pearl 
edge has a pin to hold it in place. 

Wash Black Lace in one cup of strong coffee to which one 
tablespoonful of ammonia has been added. Rinse it in gum 
arabic water, clap until nearly dry, and pin it into shape on 
flannel or iron under black muslin with a warm (not hot) iron. 

Shake and brush Lace Curtains to remove the dust, soak 
them in soapy water over night. Work the curtains gently 
up and down in the water and squeeze them between the 
hands to get the dirt out. Put them into clean warm suds 
with ammonia added, and keep changing the water until the 
curtains are clean. Never wring curtains by hand; lay them 
on a strip of cloth and put carefully through the wringer. 
Rinse well in several waters, and put through hot, moderate- 
ly thick starch. If the curtains are white, the starch should 
be blued; if cream color, strong coffee should be added to it. 
Pin each point carefully to the drying frame and set in the 
air to dry. Two or three curtains may be dried at the same 
time on one frame. If you have no frame, lay clean sheets 
over the floor of an unused room, stretch the curtains into 
shape, square and true, and pin each point so that it will 
not slip. If points are out of shape when dry, they may be 
dampened with a cloth and ironed. 



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